“INDIANS COMIN’!”
When you hear that shout in a New Orleans neighborhood, it means only one thing — a street parade by the Mardi Gras Indians. Unscripted, unauthorized and unlike anything you’ve ever seen.
If you’ve been watching the HBO mini-series Treme, you may have seen the Indians for the first time. They’re part of a larger black New Orleans traadition of brass bands, second-line clubs, and the Krewe of Zulu.
The Mardi Gras Indians may be the least understood of all those traditions. Their very origins are unclear. We do know that some young black men calling themselves Creole Wild West hit the streets dressed as Plains Indians in 1885. They were the first. Many more would follow.
These were tough, prideful men who obeyed no one but their “Big Chief.” Even in their own neighborhoods, they scared people — and for good reason.
The goal of every Indian was to be judged “the prettiest,” but Mardi Gras also was a day to confront rivals and settle scores. Uptown and downtown tribes often met in a gritty railyard to battle it out — an area immortalized by the Neville Brothers in their song, “Meet de Boys on the Battlefront.”
Indians hit the streets on Mardi Gras morning, knowing they might not return.
Since the 1950s, much has changed. Nowadays, rival Indians “battle” each other with song, dance and showmanship — and shake hands when it’s over.
No one forced this change upon them. They did it themselves.
Some now reject the title of “Mardi Gras Indians,” calling themselves instead “the Black Indians of New Orleans.” Their music is a Mardi Gras staple and their suits are highly prized by museums.
“The Battlefront?” It’s now the site of the Louisiana Superdome.
While you can see them on Mardi Gras Day, the two best times to see them Indians are St. Joseph’s Night on March 19 and Super Sunday, which is always the Sunday closest to St. Joseph’s Night. St. Joseph’s Night is when the Mardi Gras Indians of uptown New Orleans come out to parade. Super Sunday is for the downtown tribes.
Finding those parades can be a challenge. Locating an Indian practice session, usually held in neighborhood joints, can be even harder, but is definitely worth the effort.
Your best information source on all this is the Backstreet Cultural Museum. Check with Backstreet before making your travel plans. And once you’re in New Orleans, be sure to check out the museum itself.
After that, cross the street to St. Augustine Catholic Church. It’s the oldest African-American Catholic parish in the country — and the site of the Tomb of the Unknown Slave. Some of those slaves are Africans. Others are Native Americans.
It’s all in the neighborhood that inspired the HBO series, Fauborg Treme. And how’s that for closing the circle!
And now, here’s this week’s Digest:
from the Wall Street Journal
Travelers are fascinated by the Airbus A380, the world’s biggest airliner. It’s becoming its own destination — but only in First Class. Coach, unfortunately, is still Coach.
from SmarterTravel
Six affordable destinations you may not believe are affordable…but they are!
from USA Today
More developmental nightmares for Boeing’s already lagging Dreamliner after problems with the tail stops test flights. Boeing calls it “a workmanship issue.” Oh dear…
from SmarterTravel
ST reveals its Editors’ Choice Awards for the best in travel for 2010 — including Best Value Airline, Best Coach-Class Experience and Best Airport for Connections. See if you agree with their choices.
AMERICAS
from the New York Times
Positive news…from Oakland? Yes. The city is running the chain restaurants out of Jack London Square and replacing them with local, innovative chefs. The old inner harbor-slash-tourist zone is being recast as a mecca for cutting-edge cuisine.
ASIA/PACIFIC
from the New York Times
Once an out-of-the-way magnet for backpackers, the rugged beauty of the Kabak Valley is now drawing people seeking spiritual enlightenment.
from the New York Times
The annual three-month monsoon rains that breathe life into India don’t have to wash out your visit in cities like Mumbai. Dan Packel’s advice: Just find a good cafe. That advice works just about anywhere, by the way.
EUROPE
from The Telegraph (London, UK)
Stranded while vacationing in Greece by work stoppages or ornery Finnish volcanoes? The Greek government says they’ve got your back.
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