Tag Archives: Cabo San Lucas

MEXICO: Getting a bum rap?

If we held our own country to the public safety standards we’re applying to our southern neighbor, a lot of American tourism officials in the United States might be jumping out of their office windows.

Para leer este articulo en español, haga un clic aquí.

Public safety is as much a matter of perception as reality. If you feel vulnerable, then you are.

For a lot of Americans these days, the perception of Mexico is that it’s almost as dangerous as Somalia. Several cruise lines have been acting on that perception over the last year, cancelling port calls to Mexican destinations and pulling ships out of San Diego and Long Beach in the process.

We’ve all seen the lurid news stories — people being not simply murdered, but beheaded. Full-on firefights between Mexican army soldiers and drug cartel gunmen packing equal firepower.

That doesn’t doesn’t like any place the average sane person would want to visit.

And yet, does that perception match up with Mexico’s reality?

There are as many as 2 million expats currently living in Mexico. The number of Americans among them ranges from several hundred thousand to more than 1 million.

It’s hard to say exactly how many because a lot of them are living there — irony of ironies — illegally.

If it’s so dangerous down there for foreigners, why aren’t these terrified expats streaming back to the safety of the United States? The answer: Because they’re not terrified. They’re not even mildly frightened.

I have good friends who split their year between San Diego and San Miguel de Allende, a haven for artists and musicians in the mountains between Guadalajara and Mexico City, and long one of the most popular Mexican towns for expats.

If there is some mass exodus of scared gringos fleeing Mexico’s drug war, I’ve yet to see evidence of it.

I’ve never lived in Mexico, but I’ve traveled through most of it. I’ve visited the capital, Mexico City, multiple times, as well as Guadalajara and other major cities. I’ve sailed into Ensenada on cruises, along with Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta and Cozumel.

From each visit, I returned without ever having been menaced by anyone, except for some crazed car drivers, some overzealous souvenir hawkers and in one case, a swarm of angry bees.

Could it be that Mexico is getting a bum rap over all this? And if so, why?

It’s long been known and widely reported that the violence of Mexico’s drug war is neither random nor targets tourists. It tends to confine itself to those involved in the “drug game.” But there are those who insist that this inwardly focused drug violence presents a dire threat to all would-be visitors.

But what about muggers, robbers, ordinary crooks, you ask? Do Mexican cities have street thugs who might prey on tourists given the chance?

Of course, they do. So do most cities in this country. That doesn’t make the threat so dire that visiting is out of the question.

You have to wonder: How would travelers react if we apply the same rhetoric and reasoning to the United States?

Should people stop visiting New York City because it’s a locus for organized crime?

Should people stop coming to Southern California because more than 40,000 gang bangers in the Los Angeles area alone?

Should people shy away from Mardi Gras, the JazzFest or the Essence Music Festival in New Orleans because it has one of the highest murder rates in America?

Should desert lovers boycott Arizona and New Mexico because of the alcoholism and related ills running rampant on Indian reservations?

For that matter, should travelers avoid Arizona because any loonytune can legally get his hands on military-grade firearms? Or has a state Senator who thinks it’s cute to point her loaded pink handgun at a reporter during an interview?

Recently, a prominent Puerto Rican tourist, a retired legislator, died as a result of injuries he received when muggers tried to steal his watch in the Italian port of Naples. Have you heard any calls lately from Americans urging a boycott of Italy?

I haven’t.

You can’t bring tourists into any place where they don’t feel safe. If people feel they can’t disembark from a cruise ship without being assaulted by local thugs or getting caught in some cartel-military crossfire, they won’t be coming to visit, and probably shouldn’t.

But is all this fear and loathing really based on safety concerns, or is there something else playing in the background?

Look online at any news story involving illegal immigration. You’ll see the same legions of commenters, each beating the same tired drum.

Avoid Mexico. Boycott Mexico. Nuke Mexico.

One gets the sense that a lot of these people are looking for a way to punish Mexico for failing to stem the flow of its citizens illegally entering the United States. Further, many of them have a very hard time hiding the racial basis of their animosity toward Mexico.

Many others don’t even try.

Does Mexico have “issues” regarding public safety? Absolutely. But those issues are being hyped by Americans with a political agenda or a racial ax to grind, or both.

the SUNDAY TRAVEL DIGEST

Ferry from Banjul to Barra

The good, the bad and the bizarre from the wold’s best travel media

GOING IN THE NO-GO ZONES
Paul Theroux has made a living going, and writing about going. Recently in the New York Times, he wrote about the idea of going where you’re not “supposed” to go.

Actually, it’s more about going to those places where the most common and immediate response when you broach the idea is “Are you crazy? Why would you go there?”

This statement is often followed by frantic insistence that it’s too far, it’s too strange, it’s too dangerous, it’s too…something.

If you’re familiar with Theroux’s body of work, you won’t be surprised if he disagrees. He makes a case for going off the beaten tourism paths, way off.

I got similar reactions from some folks when I told them I was going to the Gambia, for no real reason except that it was totally unfamiliar to them.

It turned out to be perhaps the greatest and most important trip of my life.

To read all of Theroux’s thoughts on this issue, click here.

HIT THE BOOKS
Contrary to popular opinion, not only has the digital age not rendered the library null and void, but many are actually thriving and some of the newer ones, like Seattle’s, are actually leading revivals in the downtown cores where they were built.

I personally enjoy going over to the Geisel Library on the campus of the University of California, San Diego to work — among other things, on preparing this digest. Quiet. plenty of resources, plenty of room, plenty of electric outlets for my laptop — and it’s an architectural marvel besides.

And I could probably livehappily in the Library of Congress in Washington DC, which many be the greatest repository of knowledge since the original Royal Library of Alexandria in Egypt.

The folks at USA Today has assembled a list of ten cool libraries, old and new, municipal and collegiate, that offer activities and tours. If one of them is near you, check it out.

And be sure to check out their Travel section.

And now, here’s this week’s Digest:

AIR
from the Associated Press
How old is old in airplane years? From the ordinary airline passenger to the Federal Aviation Administration, a lot of folks are pondering that question after one of southwest Airlines’ older Boeing 737s developed a 5-foot hole in its fuselage recently in mid-air, causing the plane to depressurize and forcing an emergency landing.

from the New York Times
The art of being “bumped” from a flight, and how to profit from it. See why some travelers actually look forward to it.

LAND
from The Daily Basics
The Walkin’ Desk is equal parts rolling suitcase, mobile desk and anywhere-chair.

SEA
from USA Today
With the glut of new cruise ships out there, we’ve been telling you this was going to happen: Royal Caribbean is offering last-minute deals on two of its newest luxury behemoths, Oasis of the Seas and Allure of the Seas. Watch for other cruise lines to follow suit.

from Associated Press via Yahoo!
Carnival is the latest cruise line to pull the plug on Mazatlan in the wake of reports of crime and violence there. That means more port calls for Cabo San Lucas and Manzanillo.

from USA Today
Mexico isn’t the only cruise destination having problems. Passengers landing at the new cruise ship terminal in Falmouth, Jamaica are getting bum-rushed by drug dealers and prostitutes. The facility only opened in February. Royal Caribbean is threatening to bar their passengers from going into town. Nervous local officials are scrambling to beef up security.

AFRICA
from the Calgary Sun (Canada)
The popularity of adventure tourism in the West African nation of Mali is exposing ever more Westerners to the art of Dogon woodcarving. Result: a lot of Dogon wood work is turning up in art galleries all over the Western world.

from Agence France Presse
Africa’s lions are getting some unwanted company. The latest animal on the Mother Continent to show declining numbers in the face of changes to its habitat — South African penguins.

from the Sunday Times (South Africa)
Americans may not be traveling in sizable numbers to visit northern and sub-Saharan Africa, but Russian tourists are — and the country’s tourism ministry apparently is pushing African tourism, hard. Zimbabwe, whose president, Robert Mugabe, is largely a pariah in the West, is looking toward Moscow for the same reason. Meanwhile, back in Washington DC…

AMERICAS/CARIBBEAN
from the San Francisco Chronicle
Ever thought about backpacking? Looking for a place to ease into it, but still offers the great outdoor, complete with ocean views? Consider the Point Reyes National Seashore, on the other side of the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco. I did that there myself as a college student. There’s nothing like the feeling of walking on a beach where the only human footprints are yours.

from the New York Times
An underground food market. Not a cave…a movement. No commercial kitchen? No licenses? No problem. Just what you’d expect to pop up in San Francisco.

from the San Francisco Chronicle
If you’re speeding about in jet boats, exploring caves and listening to Shakespeare all in the same day, odds are you’re in southern Oregon.

ASIA/PACIFIC
from Bangkok Beyond
Thailand enthusiast Frank Munkvold gives the breakdown on Thai markets, including all-important tips on how to haggle. Pay close attention to that advice, because it’s good for almost anywhere in the developing world.

EUROPE
from USA Today
Believe it or not, Europe could be a travel bargain this summer — if you’re willing to forgo to usual tourism suspects and head for destinations that are both attractive and super-cheap. And yes, Europe has several of those.

from Sock Mob Events
Not your typical tour of London. These are led by London’s homeless.

from the Guardian (London UK)
A list of ten places for cheap eats in West London — although the British pound definitely makes “cheap” a relative concept to most travelers.

from the Guardian (London UK)
Oh, give me a home where the buffalo roam. The American West? Nope, try Poland. that’s right, Poland.

the SUNDAY TRAVEL DIGEST

The good, the bad and the bizarre from the world of travel

“DROP ME OFF IN HARLEM…”
There’s a chance that as you’re reading this, I’m somewhere over the continental United States, enroute to New York City. But my ultimate destination is Harlem, where I’ll be attending a Monday pre-launch of Red Rooster Harlem, the $2 million New York resto being created by young superster chef Marcus Samuelsson.

Harlem. Even the name is magical.

This is my first real visit to the unofficial capital of black America. Many moons ago, I rode through the neighborhood along with about 25,000 other cyclists during the Five Boro Bike Tour. But I was on a mission that day to complete the 35-mile course; I only stopped long enough to change a flat tire.

This time, I mean to take my time, walk around, take in as much as I can. Stop in front of the Apollo Theater. Check out the local shops. Who knows? If I really get lucky, maybe I’ll run into Bill Clinton, who just extended the lease on his Harlem office. out on a jog.

NOTHING LIKE THE REAL THING?
One of the things that we tells ourselves separates the traveler from the tourist is that the travelers criss-cross the world in real of the “authentic experience,” life in an unfamiliar place as the local live it, seeing it through their eyes.

Well, at least one veteran travel blogger, Gary Arndt, thinks we’re wasting our time, that finding that “authentic experience” is actually impossible. His blog is called everything-everywhere.com and the above is but one of the many thought-provoking ideas you’ll find there.

See if you agree with him…and tell him I sent you.


And now, here’s this week’s Digest:

from the Independent (London, UK)
If you’re planning to fly from, to or around the United States during the Thanksgiving holiday, there are ten chronically overcrowded, overtaxed and overstressed airports that will leave you feeling like the Thanksgiving turkey. This list of ten terminals to avoid originated with Orbitz. HINT: Keep it handy for Christmas, too.

from Budget Travel
How to convert your dollars to foreign currency without getting ripped off. BEST: credit and ATM cards. WORST: Airport currency exchange desks.

from Peter S. Greenberg
If the company you sold you your tour unexpectedly goes belly-up just before or even during your trip, wht recourse do you have, if any? The veteran travel writer lays out your options.

from Reader’s Digest via Yahoo! Travel
We travel folk may be overly fond of lists, but if you fly anywhere, ever, you’ll want to check out this one: “35 Secrets Your Pilot Won’t Tell You.”

AFRICA
from BusinessTraveller.com
The Egyptian government is spending $368 million to spruce up nine historic hotels that it owns (and yes, Virginia, Egypt is in Africa — whether Egyptians like it or not!).

from The Nation (Kenya)
A Kenyan physician and his wife have converted an old coffee plantation into a different kind of African vacation experience, and making it work.

AMERICAS
from Amtrak
America’s national parks are among of the world’s greatest natural treasures — and judging from their chronically falling attendance, greatly under-appreciated by Americans. Would it be easier if you could make that trip by train? Well, you can connect by rail to the national parks — more than 150 of them.

from Forbes via Yahoo! Travel
Location, location, location. Forbes lists what they consider to be America’s best neighborhoods. SLIDE SHOW

from ABC News Travel
Want to visit Mexico but put off by all the reports of border violence related to drug trafficking? No problem, as long as you remember there’s a lot more to Mexico than just the U.S.-Mexico border. Seven locations for good times and no gunfights. As a bonus, videos on Cabo San Lucas and other world destinations.

from the New York Times
Want to save $$$ on your next visit to Los Angeles, and really see the city? Don’t rent a car. Rent a bike!

ASIA/PACIFIC
from the New York Times
In Chengdu, China, Sichuan — or as some of us grew up calling it, Szechuan — cuisine is undergoing a makeover.

EUROPE
from Der Spiegel (English edition), Germany
Deep deeper than three feet in Western Europe and you’re liable to find either an unexploded bomb or a priceless artifact. In Berlin, a subway construction crew has found pieces of art thought destroyed after the Nazis declared them to be degenerate. Nazis declaring something else degenerate. How’s that for irony?

from AP Travel
Italy is losing its historical treasures — not just to the ravages of time, but also to neglect. Frances D’Emilio gives us the breakdown on a shameful situation.

from MSN Travel
Touring the United Kingdom — one traditional British snack at a time. Tiddy oggies, sad cakes, stotties and…clangers? SLIDE SHOW

Happy Birthday, Mexico

It was 200 years ago today that a priest launched the battle for Mexican independence with the cry of “¡Viva Mexico!” These days, Mexico is battling negative images and stereotypes in a bid to get its tourism back on track.

Fewer Americans visit Mexico these days, some in fear of getting caught up in the country’s bloody battle against drug cartels, others to show their disapproval of illegal immigration.

Despite all of that, it remains the first truly foreign country that many Americans visit. It also has a sizable population of expatriates, mostly retired Americans. Whether as visitor or expat, their reasons for coming are as varied as they are.

They come for the lower cost of living. They come looking to jump-start their art, writing or photography in the mountain serenity of a place like San Miguel de Allende. They come for the hot beaches of places like Cabo San Lucas, Puerto Vallarta, Islas Mujeres and Huatulco, or the diving in Bahia de los Angeles, or to get up the colonial flavor of Taxco, Guanajuato and Zacatecas.

Others come for the tropical, mountainous beauty of Oaxaca, or the all the happenings they can find in the urban mini-state that is Mexico City. They come for the pyramids at Teotihuacan or the Mayan ruins at Tulum. They come for the food, the culture, the nightlife, the wildlife. They come for the five-star resorts and for the chance to raise a tent and roll out a sleeping bag in a cove miles from anything.

Among visitors south of the border, the easiest way to start an argument is with this question: “What is the real Mexico?” The most honest answer is that there is no one Mexico, but many.

In its geography and its climate, the country seems to have a bit of almost everything — mountains, deserts, arid plains, jungles. Not two, but four long coastlines, once you throw in the Baja California peninsula. Much of Mexico is beautiful beyond description.

But for me, Mexico’s greatest attraction is her people, who are as diverse as the land they live in. In my time working there as a journalist, they taught me a lot.

They taught me Spanish (Actually, they’re still teaching me Spanish!). They taught me the importance of relationships, that good manners still matter, that no amount of difficulty in life prevents or exempts you from being kind. That in its best and truest form, friendship is nothing casual. It’s for real, and for life.

Warm, proud, creative, courageous, loving, utterly devoted to family. They know how to work. They know how to party. Facing obstacles and challenges that would wither the souls of others, they just smile, shrug, and keep on going.

This country has known a lot of hardship, a lot of hard times, in its 200 years. It still does. But these are people who persevere, and manage to smile — and make you feel welcome — while they do it. It’s but one of the things that makes them, and their country, worth getting to know.

¡Viva Mexico! indeed.

Images by David Poller. Check out more of his work HERE.