Tag Archives: San Miguel de Allende

MEXICO: Getting a bum rap?

If we held our own country to the public safety standards we’re applying to our southern neighbor, a lot of American tourism officials in the United States might be jumping out of their office windows.

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Public safety is as much a matter of perception as reality. If you feel vulnerable, then you are.

For a lot of Americans these days, the perception of Mexico is that it’s almost as dangerous as Somalia. Several cruise lines have been acting on that perception over the last year, cancelling port calls to Mexican destinations and pulling ships out of San Diego and Long Beach in the process.

We’ve all seen the lurid news stories — people being not simply murdered, but beheaded. Full-on firefights between Mexican army soldiers and drug cartel gunmen packing equal firepower.

That doesn’t doesn’t like any place the average sane person would want to visit.

And yet, does that perception match up with Mexico’s reality?

There are as many as 2 million expats currently living in Mexico. The number of Americans among them ranges from several hundred thousand to more than 1 million.

It’s hard to say exactly how many because a lot of them are living there — irony of ironies — illegally.

If it’s so dangerous down there for foreigners, why aren’t these terrified expats streaming back to the safety of the United States? The answer: Because they’re not terrified. They’re not even mildly frightened.

I have good friends who split their year between San Diego and San Miguel de Allende, a haven for artists and musicians in the mountains between Guadalajara and Mexico City, and long one of the most popular Mexican towns for expats.

If there is some mass exodus of scared gringos fleeing Mexico’s drug war, I’ve yet to see evidence of it.

I’ve never lived in Mexico, but I’ve traveled through most of it. I’ve visited the capital, Mexico City, multiple times, as well as Guadalajara and other major cities. I’ve sailed into Ensenada on cruises, along with Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta and Cozumel.

From each visit, I returned without ever having been menaced by anyone, except for some crazed car drivers, some overzealous souvenir hawkers and in one case, a swarm of angry bees.

Could it be that Mexico is getting a bum rap over all this? And if so, why?

It’s long been known and widely reported that the violence of Mexico’s drug war is neither random nor targets tourists. It tends to confine itself to those involved in the “drug game.” But there are those who insist that this inwardly focused drug violence presents a dire threat to all would-be visitors.

But what about muggers, robbers, ordinary crooks, you ask? Do Mexican cities have street thugs who might prey on tourists given the chance?

Of course, they do. So do most cities in this country. That doesn’t make the threat so dire that visiting is out of the question.

You have to wonder: How would travelers react if we apply the same rhetoric and reasoning to the United States?

Should people stop visiting New York City because it’s a locus for organized crime?

Should people stop coming to Southern California because more than 40,000 gang bangers in the Los Angeles area alone?

Should people shy away from Mardi Gras, the JazzFest or the Essence Music Festival in New Orleans because it has one of the highest murder rates in America?

Should desert lovers boycott Arizona and New Mexico because of the alcoholism and related ills running rampant on Indian reservations?

For that matter, should travelers avoid Arizona because any loonytune can legally get his hands on military-grade firearms? Or has a state Senator who thinks it’s cute to point her loaded pink handgun at a reporter during an interview?

Recently, a prominent Puerto Rican tourist, a retired legislator, died as a result of injuries he received when muggers tried to steal his watch in the Italian port of Naples. Have you heard any calls lately from Americans urging a boycott of Italy?

I haven’t.

You can’t bring tourists into any place where they don’t feel safe. If people feel they can’t disembark from a cruise ship without being assaulted by local thugs or getting caught in some cartel-military crossfire, they won’t be coming to visit, and probably shouldn’t.

But is all this fear and loathing really based on safety concerns, or is there something else playing in the background?

Look online at any news story involving illegal immigration. You’ll see the same legions of commenters, each beating the same tired drum.

Avoid Mexico. Boycott Mexico. Nuke Mexico.

One gets the sense that a lot of these people are looking for a way to punish Mexico for failing to stem the flow of its citizens illegally entering the United States. Further, many of them have a very hard time hiding the racial basis of their animosity toward Mexico.

Many others don’t even try.

Does Mexico have “issues” regarding public safety? Absolutely. But those issues are being hyped by Americans with a political agenda or a racial ax to grind, or both.

Happy Birthday, Mexico

It was 200 years ago today that a priest launched the battle for Mexican independence with the cry of “¡Viva Mexico!” These days, Mexico is battling negative images and stereotypes in a bid to get its tourism back on track.

Fewer Americans visit Mexico these days, some in fear of getting caught up in the country’s bloody battle against drug cartels, others to show their disapproval of illegal immigration.

Despite all of that, it remains the first truly foreign country that many Americans visit. It also has a sizable population of expatriates, mostly retired Americans. Whether as visitor or expat, their reasons for coming are as varied as they are.

They come for the lower cost of living. They come looking to jump-start their art, writing or photography in the mountain serenity of a place like San Miguel de Allende. They come for the hot beaches of places like Cabo San Lucas, Puerto Vallarta, Islas Mujeres and Huatulco, or the diving in Bahia de los Angeles, or to get up the colonial flavor of Taxco, Guanajuato and Zacatecas.

Others come for the tropical, mountainous beauty of Oaxaca, or the all the happenings they can find in the urban mini-state that is Mexico City. They come for the pyramids at Teotihuacan or the Mayan ruins at Tulum. They come for the food, the culture, the nightlife, the wildlife. They come for the five-star resorts and for the chance to raise a tent and roll out a sleeping bag in a cove miles from anything.

Among visitors south of the border, the easiest way to start an argument is with this question: “What is the real Mexico?” The most honest answer is that there is no one Mexico, but many.

In its geography and its climate, the country seems to have a bit of almost everything — mountains, deserts, arid plains, jungles. Not two, but four long coastlines, once you throw in the Baja California peninsula. Much of Mexico is beautiful beyond description.

But for me, Mexico’s greatest attraction is her people, who are as diverse as the land they live in. In my time working there as a journalist, they taught me a lot.

They taught me Spanish (Actually, they’re still teaching me Spanish!). They taught me the importance of relationships, that good manners still matter, that no amount of difficulty in life prevents or exempts you from being kind. That in its best and truest form, friendship is nothing casual. It’s for real, and for life.

Warm, proud, creative, courageous, loving, utterly devoted to family. They know how to work. They know how to party. Facing obstacles and challenges that would wither the souls of others, they just smile, shrug, and keep on going.

This country has known a lot of hardship, a lot of hard times, in its 200 years. It still does. But these are people who persevere, and manage to smile — and make you feel welcome — while they do it. It’s but one of the things that makes them, and their country, worth getting to know.

¡Viva Mexico! indeed.

Images by David Poller. Check out more of his work HERE.